COOL, CHIC COTTON CONQUERS ALL!

It goes back as far as India itself. It is traditional, yet contemporary. It is simple, yet fashionable. The hot, sweaty sub-continent always votes for Cool Cotton! In fact, can any other fabric come as close to popularity as this wonderfully natural fibre that cools the body and warms the heart?
Cotton cultivation dates way back to the origin of Indus Valley Civilization when cotton clothes were worn as unstitched material – generally dhotis or sarees. Trends changed with the advent of Kushans, Sakas and other central Asian tribes. Archaeologists have evidence that the first cotton trouser emerged during the Kushan rule, leading to the belief that stitching fabric to make clothes was introduced then. This may have evolved into the salwar kameez and pyjama later, but the masses have historically remained loyal to cotton weaves instead.

Since the Indus valley was a well-developed civilization, cotton spinning and fabric making were established industries. The techniques used then continued to dominate the small scale cotton industry before the advent of industrialization in India. Even today, Khadi is spun by hand using the spinning wheel or charkha.

Once established in India, could the Mediterranean regions be far behind? Italy and Spain saw the best of muslin entering its frontiers, thanks to the trading activities of Arab traders. While the cultivation of cotton started in Spain in the 9th century, it was only in the 15th century that cotton cloth was imported to England. The fabric became so popular in the country that the East India Company considered the import of cotton uppermost on its agenda! Slowly and gradually, the increasing spread of British rule led to the steady decline of India’s cotton processing units. Raw cotton was sent to Britain for processing and pumped back into India as machine made textiles. Through tariffs and other restrictions, the colonial rulers rendered swadeshi cotton as old-fashioned and uncompetitive. It was only after independence that cotton manufacturing in India came into its own.

As a versatile fabric, cotton has got approval from a range of classes. The politicians wear it as khadi, the farmers as dhotis, and women as sarees. Now, even top designers have made it their preferred material for showcasing creativity. In the eighties, renowned French designer Pierre Cardin visited India to subsequently bring out his Khadi line. It was, however, the global phenomenon of denim jeans that made cotton rock and roll! Other versions of cotton are chambray, which is used for making blue work shirts and corduroy which is the base fabric for fashionable shirts, jackets and trousers.

Cotton also lends itself well to blends, resulting in blended fabrics like rayon and polyester. Whether in knitted fabrics or stretch jeans, cotton with elastine makes a stretchier thread.
But is cotton merely day wear? Is it difficult to maintain, open to wrinkles, and humdrum in visual effect? It’s a firm no to all these doubts, claim designers. With technology and new techniques becoming so much a part of cotton processing, cotton can take its rightful place in the evening wear segment.

Look at cotton today. It is colourful and glamorous. With a splash of embroidery, sequins and beads, cotton kurtas can be teamed with long skirts to transform evening wear. Cotton is an eco-friendly fabric and is being used by designers in different forms. If the wearer has the panache, she should be able to carry off a chic piece in cotton at any party!

Indians are the largest consumers of cotton in the world. The fact that we are the second largest producers of cotton and that the weather is hot and humid probably contributes to this fact. What’s more, cotton has its signature style and differentiates the wearer as a person who is natural, spontaneous and individualistic. It can’t get more Indian than that.

So if you’re looking for tones and textures, feel and fall, during day or night – you really shouldn’t look beyond cotton. It’s cool – and its so globally Indian!

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